5 June 2017

Where to stay in Bieszczady: Chata Magoda

There's a popular saying in Polish, "Let's leave everything behind and go to Bieszczady". After spending a couple of days there, you’ll come to understand it. There’s indescribable peace in those mountains; they are wild, breathtakingly beautiful and seem almost uninhabited. Of course, you’ll encounter a small village here and there when you drive through the forests but oftentimes you’ll feel as if you were at the end of the world, among silence, where nobody can find you. 

In Lutowiska, in one of those villages in south-east Poland, there’s Chata Magoda, a traditional wooden mountain cottage. The guesthouse is run by a lovely couple, Jagoda and Maciek, who left the city and moved to the countryside more than ten years ago. They renovated the cottage by their own hands and now offer five rooms to their guests as well as delicious home-cooked meals. The food is prepared every day by Jagoda with the use of fresh local products  you can taste herbs and vegetables from her garden, her absolutely delicious homemade fruit jams, pickled cabbage or goat cheese. Meals are served on a common table at an arranged time. Sometimes, in the morning, when guests get to know each another, they decide to go hiking together or talk about their experiences of the day and exchange tips during dinner. 

Upon arrival we were still the only guests so Jagoda let us pick the room. The Chinese Room was simple yet spacious enough; it wasn't the prettiest but we chose it because of the fantastic view at the mountains. All rooms have a private bathroom. Electric kettle is available downstairs, as well as a selection of teas. I'm not very fond of dogs so when I saw two big golden retrievers running towards us when we parked the car, I was a bit upset at first. Seriously though  I've never met happier, friendlier and more adorable creatures!

One of my favourite spots at Chata Magoda was the cozy terrace downstairs with soft cushions and warm blankets. I simply can’t imagine a better way to end your long day of hiking than with a mug of hot tea and that view. I strongly recommend taking a walk near the house and go towards the setting sun (simply turn left and follow the road). I warn you here: sunsets in Bieszczady will literally take your breath away  the same way birds singing through the silence, mists forming in the valleys or the stars on crystal clear skies will. There’s so much to see and experience about nature there, and it’s all at your fingertips.

Practical info:
  • from 55 EUR/night per double room
  • the room we stayed at: Chinese Room
  • location: Lutowiska village in south-east Poland, about four-hour drive from Cracow
  • homemade breakfast and dinner included in the price
  • address: Lutowiska 27, Poland (www)


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